Monday, March 2, 2009

Smelly Brown Stuff Urine

hitchhiked to Yakushima

A trip to the end of inches and soles, with mountains and onsen


Defense final thesis on February 18, graduation ceremony on March 23. That looks like a well deserved holiday and a last minute trip before my return to France on March 29. In fact, it's a bit more complicated, since before pre-move and write an article for a scientific journal, among other things, I'm invading immorally in my spare time unconstrained by any sensei. But I still saved 18 days of freedom.

Eighteen days is not long enough to go soak in another neighboring country, and then for my last trip, I decide to do in Japan. It's been more than a year I fly to visit the country around, with the feeling of having already seen enough of Japanese landscapes. But in fact I've never been in the Tohoku 东北, a large gap between 东京 Tokyo and Aomori 青森, is to tell the whole northern part of Honshu.

I also have some testable hypotheses, including the vision of a Japanese foreign tourists from a foreign resident. Or reformulating, living in Japan as a resident scholar is he different than to live as a traveler / tourist (falsely) lost. Or, now that I am sufficiently impregnated Kyoto, people are really more closed than in the rest of Japan? And what's more, that gives a hitchhiker on Japanese roads, where the practice is not widespread?

What experience to lead, of course during a bike trip, the best economical way to travel the country. Except that my destinations are well away from Kyoto and too costly in time, I put up a diabolic system: I found a small folding bike Used for 2000 I ¥ cup in my bag-to-back, I'm going away to stop or train, then I am local bike tours there.

But no bowl, just before leaving, I realize that it is not small enough to fit in my bag-to-back, and ultimately quite heavy. It will be a journey to stop while the strength of the thumb, the only solution that I had not tried to move on Japanese soil (to be added to the list ferry (limited) - train (expensive) - car (too easy) - bike (perfect!) - Running feet (it hurts knee) - JR smash (pas bien) - avion (cher) ). Et comme on est en mars et qu'il fait encore froid pour camper, je change complètement ma destination pour aller vers le sud. Ca sera du coup Yakushima Yakushima , une île tout en bas du Japon.

Jusqu'à Yakushima Yakushima, avec arrêts intermédiaires à Beppu Beppu, Kagoshima Kagoshima et Tanegashima Tanegashima, et au retour, Sakurazima Sakurajima, Kumamoto Kumamoto, Yamaguchi

Ooshima Yamaguti Oshima et



I'll tell my hitchhiking adventure in this post complete with links to the pages of my stops. In all, I totaled 32 different vehicles for more than 2000 km of road, as many stories and anecdotes, and good fortune always have me led to my destination the day despite ambitious long moments of doubt. This one left me even camp out for 2 nights, but even in the south in March is cool ...


March 3


all starts Tuesday, March 3 when, after a night one day and one night went to finish things, I decided to from home by bad weather. The feedback I got on hitchhiking in Japan is surprisingly positive, but I leave determined to have big doubts about how I arrive at the destination. I have the book "The Hitch-Hiker's Guide to Japan" by Will Ferguson, who is actually quite useless because it is rather a guide to good manners to be adopted in Japan, with a few tips on the art of Japanese thumb. Wikitravel is much more useful.

My goal is ambitious and quickly set to arrive at Beppu 别 府 the same day, 780 miles away. For this, we must necessarily take the highway. The hitchhike インターチェンジ highway interchanges to me advisable, unlike SA (サービス エリア service area), rest areas.

The challenge with SA is that there is obviously no outside access for cars, since it is paying the highway and an SA is not an interchange. And they are also a bit clueless, because it is already large and there 's no place in Japan (Otsu example SA). But for employees of restaurants and service stations that need to get here, there is always a small secret path. Indications Ando So I go to SA 大 津 Otsu, east of Kyoto, 20 minutes by train + 20 minutes walk from my house, where I arrive at 9am.

The secret entrance to the SA Otsu 大 津


I find myself directly in the car parks to cross to the right side.

The 名 神 高速 道路 Highway Nagoya - Kobe


Hunting Zone


I, who likes the bike to go where I want when I want, I must now wait uncomfortably in order to go I do not know where. Especially knowing that the average Japanese, avoiding any conflict, the whole mess, and therefore any new thing that has no user manual supplied with (as a foreigner, for example), and happens to be convinced that the things he does not want do not exist, I am not very confident, even with my jeans and my own signs written in kanji.

Then I go forward in search of plates of the south and will ask for a ride, so I watch I speak Japanese, which I think amounts to break their greatest fear. Without success, but reassured by their open answers on hitchhikers. Given the small number of parked cars I return to my fixed point in leaving the apron in full view of people who take coffee at the rest area. It is for the Japanese base, very thoughtful and too cautious to start a discussion with himself and his co-pilots to decide my fate. And it takes too much time for them to take a spontaneous decision just passed me, which requires compliance with a minimum stay planted by being observed.

After half an hour is gone for good, I am taken by a manager of a box in naval engineering consultancy, who knew the Oshima shipyard . First coincidence ...

After 冈山 Okayama, he must leave unexpectedly and leaves me on a PA (parking area). A PA is announced almost the same way as SA, but there is no restaurant or gas station, or anything, just a toilet. So there is no one who stops just truck to sleep. This is not the right plan to hitchhike.

The weather is deteriorating quickly and I take refuge under a roof, looking for my savior (a commercial for coffee BOSS) exiting at the next exit, but that drops me off just before an SA, 10 km from my PA.

SA 福山 Fukuyama, almost under the snow


is not very credible, I will express to the south for warmer temperatures, and snow above me on 3 March, the first snow of winter for the region. Hiroshima Prefecture is all white. Got me one more reason to get absolutely Beppu avoiding camping en route. After several Travel requests, 2 dental students accept and ゆうき てる for a long ride into 九州 Kyushu, where they were on vacation from Yokohama.

They let me just before 福冈 Fukuoka on the SA 古 贺 Koga, when night approaches. There is little movement and all those present to stop Fukuoka. I need someone who is beyond the town and turns at the junction of highways in central Kyushu to Beppu in Oita Prefecture 大分. And there in the parking lot only 2 cars registered 大分. The first refuses (like most people, "it is the Car of the job "is the usual excuse) and I the other, a family of self-defense forces in civilian clothes who was dining. This is the last chance and I'm good on the way to Beppu. then I will have a carrier Ice Channel 7 / 11 SA to Beppu, and 2 grandmothers of SA to exit the highway to Beppu Station, because in fact Beppu city spa brand, which is larger it did air. Going down the lanes, I note with nostalgia fumes escaping from manholes and announcing days to take baths ...

Leaving dentists on the SA 古 贺 Koga


front of the station 别 府 Beppu, first contact with the thermal waters


Lorraine just find me a ramen which concluded successfully this day of 12 hours waiting and cars. For info, Kyoto - Beppu is 120 euros for 4 hours or 75 HSR euros for 15 hours slow train.

thermal Adventures:

Beppu

Yufuin

Beppu secret



March 7


I leave being stayed longer than expected in Beppu, Beppu is the start SA. The goal of the day is then 鹿 児 岛 Kagoshima, the big city to the south of Kyushu. For this, a motorist would hurry his steps to the center of the island to stay on the highway. But I wanted to see the 10 号 线 Route 10, a more direct route but smaller along the east coast through Miyazaki 宫 崎. I therefore proceed in the "wrong direction" with 2 grandpas who put me down soon after Oita 大分 after 犬 饲 Inukai.

My little junction on Highway 10


Nothing comes for half an hour, and did not feel I decide to walk a few miles to the next light. Japan is behind the surprisingly quiet and really contrast with the cities.

A climate no hurry


He,


The traffic is very low but at least it feels good. A retired farmer takes me to 30 km (we see a monkey crossing the road) until 佐伯 Saiki, where he drops me off at the 道 の 駅 michi-no-eki. It is a kind of staging area but outside the highway, which sell local products and souvenirs.

In fact, I have almost no progress, maybe 20% of the total distance, while over 50% of the day has already passed. You should know that it is night shortly after 18h ... and I begin to imagine discovering a city for the night through.

So I look my sign Miyazaki 宫 崎, 150 km away, while 鹿 児 岛 Kagoshima is over 300 km. I am taken by a young decorator shipyard in Imabari, Shikoku, another naval coincidence ... He went there that morning and went to Kagoshima, so all's well that ends well. Unfortunately because of his GPS which dictates the way, you do not drive near the sea but a few miles away. We stop to eat Miyazaki, Kagoshima and arrive at dusk.

Crossing Miyazaki 宫 崎 市-shi


The arrival Kagoshima is remarkable for the smoke from the volcano Sakurajima 桜 岛 who wakes up battery that day. More details ...


Kagoshima and Cape Sata


Then Kagoshima I go by ferry to 种子 岛 Tanegashima then 屋 久 岛 Yakushima:


Tanegashima

Yakushima Hiking (1) Introduction and Departure Arakawa to

Yakushima Hiking (2) The shelter behind Jomon Sugi

Yakushima Hiking (3) At the top of Miyanoura-dake

Yakushima Hiking (4) Mystic descent

Yakushima Shiratani Unsuikyo

Yakushima Tour



One reason to go to Yakushima: the onsen on the beach facing the sea



March 16


In my Back on the "continent", I do a little turn on Sakurajima 桜 岛.


Sakurajima



Then around noon, I leave for Kumamoto 熊 本, this is the beginning of the return. Rather than taking the highway, I follow the advice of Dai and selected the 3 号 线 Route 3 along 八 代 海 Inland Sea Yatsushiro. To get away from the city, I take the train to a station not far from Campaign that route. By cons, my train has its terminus stop too soon and let me go to 伊 集 院 Ijuin. I have to walk 5 km to the highway, where it does not take too despite my good spot.

3 号 线 Route 3, near Ijuin 伊 集 院


I then successively oil therapist, a manager of a store ほっ か ほっ か 亭 , a salesman of hospital equipment, and a guy who does nothing because it affects the day (like most of his family) 20 万 a month from the government for his disability (mental?) ... I have not understood everything he said but despite his pedal stroke I chopped released unharmed on a parking Lawson.


On leaving 川 内 Sendai, reading strange for these kanji, not to be confused with 仙台 in Tohoku

With 4 short trips, then it is already late and I still have half of the course. I can Kumamoto not like that. Then, in eating a kebab, Lawson, and walking along the road to a good spot, leaving me hanging nonchalantly 熊 本 panel in my back, a car stopped to pick me up at the end. I waited 0 minutes. With my 2 young drivers, a seller of watches and Ion-seller ケーズデンキ I finished once more safely at night, with last chance at the last moment . For it is against one of the few times I waited less than 30 minutes.


Kumamoto by night




March 17


It drops me off at Kumamoto IC at the entrance of the exchanger, despite the cons-indications of hitchhikers. Indeed, after an hour on one side, with different signs, nothing works. Then an hour on the other hand, this time in canvassing the parking lot of Lawson, and it ends up walking with a young couple where the guy is a seller of wholesale sake. My goal for the day is Oshima, the shipyard. They put me down to 鸟 栖 Tosu, an SA just before crossing the treacherous environment Kyushu. The same crossroads that I have been hard to turn down Kitakyushu, because nobody is running and everyone runs to Fukuoka.

Parking 鸟 栖 Tosu SA


After over an hour watching the drivers pass the buck, I'm finally caught by VRP a second life to Japanese佐世保 Sasebo, where they had to go at speed for an appointment. This windfall brings up quickly, despite my hope already bending to 16.30. By cons, there are more boats to Sasebo Oshima, we must take the road and the bridge, a long bypass.

佐世保 6:20 p.m. at Sasebo, the sun sets behind the American frigates


The sun presses me to find my next ride in the car park at the Family Mart outlet in Sasebo. Luckily, when I sign up, the first car stops and she will guide me to the deck (fee) Oshima. This is a guy laying of pipes and slowly opens his beer on the way home, despite the law alcohol 0.

20h on the deck of Oshima, encore en mode A-Team. On repère facilement le shipyard


Puis je retrouve les gens avec qui j'avais fait mon stage, 2,5 années plus tôt, dont les Kaneda pour la soirée au Haru .


18 mars


Réveil sponsorisé par l'onsen du Oshima Island


Soirée au don avec la Hagumi Miyoshi I can



どん ぞ こ マスター



March 19


The next day, back with the Kaneda to start, then a director a subcontractor for the automobile, in crisis, seeking redress from doing business in China. One last SA microscope and then he leaves me at the interchange, for a further hour and some of galley. Two girls bound for the hanami 花 见 stop, but they do not ride on the highway, they cross Fukuoka city 福冈 to go to 北九州 Kitakyushu, another nightmare. But I agree with them because I lost hope at the entrance of the exchanger.

exchanger Fukuoka


After having turned around, when I wondered if I would spend the day in the same car, they deviate from 3 km to National to drop me off near a motorway SA, well hidden. A blast barrier and I'm in the facility. I am a seller of Shimonoseki 下 关 antennas up, then up to Machiko 山口 Yamaguchi.

Back on Highway


Dinner Yamaguchi



March 20


Breakfast


Yamaguchi, a little town onsen


五 重 塔 The pagoda was open that day



甘 酒 amazake


Here we go again since the SA 佐波川, with a couple of retired until 宫 岛 SA, then a family vacation until Okayama.

At 佐波川 SA (Yamaguchi)


Dropped shortly before Okayama


is on this area of Okayama as the first driver Heavyweight beckons me to rise. So far, they all answered me they could not take hitchhikers. It takes me to Kyoto, because it goes all over Japan. It's convenient, but very slow, the engines of lorries being restrained at 90 km / h. En route, we pass the spot where another driver to have died in the striking from the back 2 years earlier, and large plugs for entry into 神 戸 Kobe. He is talkative and not in a hurry, but we finally returned to my starting point, the SA Otsu 大 津.

tunneling on the seat pan of the truck


The End


It is 22:30 and I have then join Kyoto with the last trains, Okubo and find that I had met in Hokkaido 北海道 pedaling.

So finally, I had the chance to always get where I wanted, at the last moment. I had quite a wait, even canvassing the parking lots to make the practice not common at all a little more proactive. It also told me several times, a foreign y'en not stop often (and it seems less than before, as the country becomes more dangerous ... blah), but it is still less fear that a Japanese hitchhiking, which is much more suspect. An alien who comes to hitchhike in Japan is less absurd and more accepted that a Japanese who tried in his own country. And as people who stopped were relatively open and curious, it was an experience much more interesting than being sedentary among kyotoïtes. And once again, a great trip at minimal cost ...

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