Beppu (别 府) in the prefecture of Oita 大分, 九州 north of the island's southern Japan, resonates throughout the country as the city of hot springs, the onsen town.
I was already gone when Road Trip Kyushu in 2006, but being newbie, I had followed Kobayashi-san in tourist mode, and rather than basking in baths, we had toured 地狱 [jigoku] hells, ponds where vapors escape and thuds, transformed into tourist circuit, with crocodiles and other animals that do not belong there.
But since then, having discovered the power sulfuric baths, I wanted to return to me soak in 温泉 [Onsen] including 野 天 风 吕 [rotenburo], open-air baths, like ShinHodaka (but the best and wildest are Hokkaido).
I started the day at 10 am at the Beppu station, where there is an office Tourism handy, even with a queue for foreign tourists, empty, while the Japanese are busy. The establishments in the city are well presented, and the more I question the lady, she gives me more coupons. There is even a map to find the English secret onsen. I'm disappointed because it breaks the challenge of finding a hot pool inaccessible lost in a forest, with some grandpas premises at any break. Anyway, for the day I am a super condensed course the best places that I can quickly reach by bike.
Beppu Tourism Online: the schedules and prices onsen (Click to enlarge)
I decided to start with a 砂 风 吕 sand bath, 15 minutes by bike along the coast. The weather is lousy and rain is forecast, but I like that moisifierait day, only three small drops fall.
The ugly 別府 タワー Beppu Tower, even Asahi Tower in downtown
Beppu is a town wedged between the mountains and the sea, facing Shikoku. Dozens of fumaroles escape the flanks of these mountains, evidence of volcanic activity underneath, but especially indicative of hot baths when I'm about to relax me ... yum.
smoky mountains behind Beppu
then I arrive at 别 府 海 浜 砂 汤 Beppu Kaihin Suna-yu, facing the sea
is under the little canopy that I'm going to silt
别 府 海 浜 砂 汤 Beppu Kaihin Suna-yu, 1000 yen for 15 minutes under the sand
The sand is soaked with spring water. Moreover, it flows underneath and its vapors back through the sand layer. The 2 girls prepare a hole where I lay down, arms along the blow, and they cover me by packing a little. And without warning, after 5 minutes, beads of sweat rolling down my temples and I feel my pulse beat at the ankles. I can hardly open his eyes for the photo shoot but we can not say that the view of the loaders is top, they are rebuilding the port or dikes.
After the phase of grit, a little bath
unpublished Photo: 竹 瓦 温泉 onsen Takegawara, another sand bath in Beppu, 33 months earlier ...
I renfourche mamachari the back of the Daigaku Lorraine St, then a small cobbled street. It's steeper than it did air and it smells like sulfur or rotten eggs everywhere.
Fort Boyard
Break 温泉玉 子 Onsen Tamago, a boiled egg at the onsen
Besides, the passage 别 府 秘宝 馆 Hihokan (600 yen discount), completely くだらない but I do not regret (photos on request)
A little earlier, we arrive at 铁轮 Kannawa, a district that includes most 地狱 Jigoku, sad tourism sources called hell (more pictures before ). There's one that I had not seen, supposedly the most beautiful. For 400 yen, so I'll be back in the 海 地狱 Umi-jigoku, hell sea
Arrival 铁轮 Kannawa: lots of smoke without fire
海 地狱 Umi-jigoku
Indeed, the color of the water is super nice. It would almost want to jump to
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There 天然 written (natural) but I do not know if they add stuff in the water or not. In the store that one is forced to cross to get to jigoku, they sell bags of powder to put in her bath to reproduce umi jigoku-home.
In a greenhouse, the giant water lilies grow in a basin with warm water depths
An adjacent source seems more natural
It is also a 足 汤 [ashiyu], a bath football, not "hot spring of a leg "as it is fun to write
It is very hot, especially if you enter where the water is introduced, and there are floating yuzu to play with
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There is also a pond within the confines of greenery surprising
It's not raining yet, so it's time to get down to business. I climb atop 明矾 Myoban, the part of Beppu who invites himself into the mountains. It is even behind the highway.
Mamachari climbing
ago while high 湯の里 Yu-no-sato, a park that rents houses for taking private baths. At the entrance, I stumbled upon dental students who had taken me a ride to Fukuoka the previous day, the series of chance encounters continued. We have lunch together before going to finally enjoy what I come see, and baths with magical properties.
Herein for those who want to be quiet
Just above, there is a 野 天 风 吕 outdoor bath for 500 yen, an extraordinary color, overlooking the city of Beppu and of course the bridge of the highway that comes off.
湯の里 Yu-no-sato
別府 明礬 湯の里 温泉: something we should all be in her garden
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In other houses, they also grow 湯の花 Yu-no-hana: the "flowers thermal water. They come to crystallize minerals sources and sell them in little bags to put in her bath at home.
湯の花 Yu-no-hana
A little lower down, there Beppu 保養 ランド Hoyoland , I could not avoid with its description.
Mud-filled paradise: an unforgettable sensation, as if you are right Entering Into Hell
For cons, the entry is all rotten, it looks like an abandoned building. But it takes me 1050 yen at the counter, I put on my slippers, and go.
泥 汤 Doro-yu, mud bath, this is what awaits me
The path to go home until the bath is twisty and fun. We see a little further jets of steam, the same as it was in jigoku banned from swimming, and that's where I'm heading ...
Entering Hoyoland ...
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Wandering with a camera in the bathroom and people naked, is uncomfortable and a little person, but I tried to take pictures representative.
The interior is rather dark, especially in evening, and the colors of water and bricks give a magical and medieval. The field is vast, there are passages between indoor and outdoor baths and separate baths mixed, mud baths and steam rooms. Men and women are more or less separated and mixed.
The main bath inside, said Colloid-yu, hot
There is a sort of secret passage into the street, which descends to the basement to a rinse bath for those who return, then back down a long corridor before emerging on a giant bath outside.
Moving Live
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The famous giant mud bath
The wooden barriers delineating the area of women and men. In fact, there is a bottom of mud and water up to 1 meter. The water is almost opaque, so people come forward to a squatting place cushy, where they collect mud they put on their shoulders and arms. We are supposed to do that day, to dry in the sun, but it was too late for me. The sludge is made gray, is a kind of paste that smells of sulfur ash.
More hidden (background on the photo above), there is a bathroom smaller but much more mud. It's very easy to fall because my legs are taken and sucked by the viscosity.
Already a bath outside, it's a bit being in a primitive state, naked in the water in the middle of nature, if in addition we can roll in mud (clean) is the top.
all naked under the stars, between a mud bath and a jet of steam that comes straight from the bowels of the earth. If there was not the overpass, it would really be in prehistory
the other side of the bath giant, there is a path that crosses a river on a small wooden bridge bypasses the entry of women and men joined the field with the cascade of onsen.
Discover
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滝 汤 Taki-yu
The むし 湯 steam rooms, you can not see anything . Upon entering, I am guided by voices that make me sit on a wooden bench. It's more suffocating than any other room, and we all itchy eyes quickly.
むし 湯 mushi-yu
pumps hell
Back to main bath. Hoyoland is amazing
On returning I found a local specialty, the とり 天 (toriten) , the から 揚げ (fried chicken) fat and juicy, and I stop at a last onsen, ひょうたん の 湯 Hyotan-no-yu. A Hyotan is a gourd that form there, and there is a bath in the form of the eponymous onsen.
input ひょうたん の 湯 Hyotan-no-yu
Inside, it feels artificial, but it's damn good. Besides the 19 consecutive 滝 汤 waterfalls and deserted, underground, and the concrete slab gross 野 天 风 吕 outdoor bath is relaxing. I meet two yak * zas (Beppu is intimately linked to prostitution) and a hot sauna with jets of cold water industry, before you burst out completely, my energy was dissolved in hot water.
Everywhere in free access, the 足 汤 [ashiyu], foot baths
Lorraine sleep I go home directly, any skin feeling smooth and minerals. The next day, hiking to Yufuin , then back to Beppu for another crazy day: Beppu secret corners of local .
This adventure is an episode of Yakushima hitchhiking trip
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